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Deanna Bowers gained much from her 25 years of school nursing in Central School District in Rancho Cucamonga, California, as well as leadership opportunities with the California School Nurses Organization during that time--but none of those experiences prepared her completely for the challenges of being the School Nurse/Infirmarian at St. Rita's Catholic Technical High School in Nkambe, Cameroon!

Deanna and her husband, Warren, had dreamed and talked of working with people from other cultures in the Peace Corps when they married in 1960, but career and family responsibilities postponed that dream until they retired. After Warren retired, they attended training classes with the Lay Mission Helpers, a program of the Los Angeles Catholic Archdiocese that places American professionals in developing countries--the Catholic version of Peace Corps! In February, 2002, they accepted a three-year assignment at St. Rita's, a boarding school in Nkambe, Cameroon. Warren, a retired manufacturing engineer, is teaching program planning and management and woodworking, and working with staff in financial/development projects. Deanna is teaching seventeen classes of health science each week in addition to providing
primary health care to 310 students. Great Retirement Jobs!!!

Deanna's Cameroon Journal contains stories and reflections of the challenges and blessings they found in their African adventure.

We are always in need of supplies, books, and teaching materials. Shipping is a great and risky expense, so any financial donations are very much appreciated.

Donations (tax-deductible) may be sent to Warren and Deanna Bowers c/o Lay Mission Helpers 3435 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1035; Los Angeles, CA 90010. The Bowers' mailing address in Cameroon is P. O. Box 1850, Nkambe, NW Province, Cameroon.

With our thanks to Lisa Kuehl and School Health Corporation for spreading our story, persisting in shipping school health supplies to us last year, and the wall decor for St. Rita's Infirmary!

Warren and Deanna Bowers
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Deanna's Cameroon Journal

April 15, 2003
We spent our first holidays away from Nkambe this past week in Kumbo/Shisong with the other LMH folks. I really enjoyed the green hills, mountains and valleys as we drove to Kumbo-it was like a totally new experience… read on

Saturday, April 19, 2003
This holiday week has been most interesting and most restful-except that we have been without power for more than 24 hours-and I have great concerns for the food in the refrigerator… read on

The Sarico women

May 5, 2003
The social events of the past weekend were very cultural experiences. On Saturday evening, we went to a "born house"-celebration of a newborn at the home of the Discipline Master. The SARICO (St. Rita's College) women were all in "uniform" and celebrated with song and dance… read on

May 14, 2003
Last weekend was another cultural experience opportunity… read on

June 4, 2003
And he is another Cameroonian inspiration… read on

June 9, 2003
We must remind ourselves why we are here-to serve, and we will not be able to save all… read on

June 16, 2003
This is the health center that the Bishop had planned for me to staff one day a week… read on
June 27, 2003
The drive to Douala seemed new all over again. When we came, things were so new and overwhelming! In Douala, we stayed at the Padre Poi Clinic, a Shisong Hospital annex. When we arrived, a woman in labor also arrived… read on                                 

The Bishop, Warren, & Deanna

June 28, 2003
I stood on a corner in pouring rain and met a young man, John Paul, who reported he is a law student in Yaoundé and offered to assist us. When we three went to the Cam Air office, we were surrounded with screaming men and women-all flights had been cancelled and people were angry-Cam Air did not pay landing fees and all flights were cancelled. Soon we saw riot police arriving… read on

June 29, 2003
There was knocking at our hotel door at 6 a.m… read on

June 30, 2003
After a stop at his house, he took us to the airport Cam Air office where he said his "sister?" worked. She punched in some numbers to the computer and we went back to our waiting cab. We proceeded a long way back to the city (errands for JP?) and stopped again at the Internet Café. We were not sure if he is an angel to guide us or someone taking advantage of us… read on

July 1, 2003
After much thought, discussion about our discomfort, and prayers, we wrote a note to John Paul… read on

July 2, 2003
It was pouring rain, but we were up and ready to go to the Cam Air office at 8 a.m. with our receipts to claim reimbursement. We waited for John Paul who was to go with us until 10 a.m., but he did not show. We took a taxi to the Cam Air office, only to be told the flight was cancelled AGAIN… read on

July 3, 2003
The Longest Day of My Life… read on

July 4, 2003
The flight was in the air; the food was good; and the flight was only 4 ¾ hours. We arrived in Johannesburg time at 1 a.m., exchanged money and took a taxi to the Quatermain Hotel. I knew this would be a different chapter when we got the taxi-an immaculate Mercedes with leather seats and we drove on freeways! The hotel was sumptuous… read on

July 5, 2003
We are likely to gain back in 4 weeks the weight we have lost the last five months! Morning coffee came with fruit, yogurt, oatmeal, pancakes, toast and rusks! The camp report was that there was an elephant in camp in the night… read on

July 6, 2003
The morning highlight was a find of two large male lions enjoying their daytime rest together… read on

July 7, 2003
In the afternoon, we did a tour of the Okavango Delta-fish eagles, cormorants, hippos, water lilies, king fishers and assorted rushes and papyrus-described by our guide, a local fisherman with a large flat bottom boat… read on

July 8, 2003
We could see the miles of waterways of the delta (which never dumps into an ocean) and we headed north to Savuti and the now arid land which used to be a river and lake bed…. read on

July 9, 2003
Morning of Lions… read on

July 10, 2003
We went to the "marsh"-now dry since the 1980's-miles of short brown grass-ostrich, wildebeests… read on

July 11, 2003
They were tearing down our tents as we pulled out, headed north to the Chobe River. The blankets felt great as the wind and dust blew through our hair and jackets… read on

July 12, 200
I walked to the village of Kasane this morning… read on

July 13, 2003
The Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is magnificent--large buildings on the hill top with traditional style thatched roofs, overlooking the Zambezi River… read on

July 14, 2003
then he jumped off the bridge head first, straight down into the river gorge… read on

July 15, 2003
This vacation goes on and on… read on

July 16, 2003
We are still humbled to have experienced so much of dreams we've had since childhood! We have been captured by Africa… read on

July 17 - 24, 2003
Our two-hour flight to Cape Town left about the same time as the rest of the group left for the 20+ hour flight to the US. How beautiful it was to fly over the South African country… read on

August 6, 2003
We left Cape Town in the early morning on July 24, flew uneventfully by Cameroon Air to Douala, only to find that our reservations at the Baptist Mission House had been… read on

August 18, 2003
We are back in Nkambe, and the people welcomed us with extended hands and open arms. Many of the teachers are still on holiday, but there are some here and lots to do… read on

August 25, 2003
There was another moment of terror when an oncoming taxi (overloaded of course) lost steering and… read on

September 3, 2003
The Final Profession for Sisters Gisela and Josephine was yesterday, and it was indeed a grand occasion. I was on the decoration committee, so I did the flowers for the altar and tabernacle. We also did construction paper cones for dry flowers on the rock walls-'problems sticking! The flowers in bloom now are beautiful, so God really does the design… read on


Warren's Budgeting Plan

September 10, 2003
The trip to Kumbo last week Friday/Saturday was another interesting adventure… read on

September 16, 2003
Yesterday, Warren did a seminar on Budgeting for the school staff. They really got into it with enthusiasm… read on

September 18, 2003
Yesterday, Patrick's sister, Immaculate, who is just starting St. Rita's, had an accident in the classroom. She had her head out a window (two missing jalousie panes), lifted her head, and the pane above fell and broke on her… read on

September 19, 2003
I met with a local pharmacist recently, and he is interested in gathering medications for patients/families who cannot afford them. He works with a Non Government Agency, which provides medications free to those who need it and have no means. He is interested in antibiotics, anti-virals, or any medication… read on

September 21, 2003
It has been a busy weekend for the infirmary-lots of sick kids! I was at the infirmary for two hours yesterday and saw 13 students, four I treated for malaria… read on

September 26, 2003
Today I had two boys demanding to go to the hospital-one young first-year boy who wanted to go see his "aunt" who works there. I explained to him the school procedure and that I would take him there if he needed to go-I think he was homesick… read on

September 30, 2003
I need to finish the story of Desmond, the 12 year old new student who wanted to go to the hospital to see his "aunt." He went to the town (not the hospital) and talked to the folks who sell "soya"-barbecued beef/goat on skewers, and three of them came to the school to find out what was going on… read on

October 5, 2003
So, we walked together and I shared with him how far I am from my family, and my own homesickness that makes me cry sometimes, too. However, I talked about things that I do to feel better, including praying… read on

October 7, 2003
When we got there, she was hyperventilating, stretched out over several girls holding her on her bed, crying hysterically that she was having "palpitations" and needed to go to the hospital. I told her to stop crying, breathe deeply and get control over herself so I could help her. She had no fever, no abdominal tenderness-so I gave her antacids… read on

October 11, 2003
It is Saturday, and I started with 6 a.m. Mass at the parish, then quick breakfast and infirmary hours at the school, and then off to the hospital. I took a 12-year old girl, Damaris, to the hospital to be admitted yesterday afternoon… read on

October 12, 2003
Another trip to the hospital yesterday afternoon with a 23-year old student with a fever of 105 degrees! I did get Joe the school driver to take us in the school truck, as it was raining again. The pharmacist is still out ill, but I was able to buy IV supplies from the nurse. Of course she had no change, so I am out the change until I see her again… read on

October 29, 2003
What a fascinating experience… read on

November 2, 2003
It has been an interesting week back… read on

November 3, 2003
The medical dramas continue… read on

November 4, 2003
One boy came to me with a large cavity in a back molar, and I told him there is no dentist here, so he put cement (building material) in the hole… read on

November 5, 2003
We are blessed and have much to be thankful for… read on

Deanna and Her Students

November 12, 2003
Last week's excitement was a regional soccer match… read on

November 15, 2003
This weekend was the NKACUDA-Nkambe Cultural and Development Agency's annual gathering of Wimbum tribe members from throughout Cameroon… read on

November 21, 2003
It was another exciting week for the school nurse… read on

November 23, 2003
It was a grand occasion for all-speeches, toasts, each one gives a wish for the child, and I was called upon to give advice to the parents… read on

November 26, 2003
I haven't written for a few days because of the heavy infirmary load! The line is long every time I enter! Terence (basketball injury) continued to complain of pain and moaned day and night... read on

November 30, 2003
Our Thanksgiving Day was STRESSFUL-lots of sick students-bladder infection, assorted sprains, "gastric," and malaria… read on

Deanna in the infirmary
December 2, 2003
It has been great using the equipment from School Health Supply-'already determined that a student who thought he was having vision problems is seeing 20/20! Also, I have a student in the hospital with complaints of heart palpitations who had a sudden nose bleed… read on

December 3, 2003
What an inspiration in the face of such tragedy… read on

December 11, 2003
Last Sunday, the Sisters and I went to visit the Fulani (Muslim) compound to talk about the health problems… read on

December 15, 2003
The Parish Day was celebrated yesterday at the parish church. Mass started at 9 a.m., and finished at 2 p.m.-and then we were invited to the school hall for lunch and an auction! Parish Day is a day of fund raising, and Father Isadore is aiming at buying property for a permanent church and rectory… read on

December 17, 2003
On Monday evening we celebrated Christmas with the students… read on

December 18, 2003
He truly was the perfect gift for Christmas, as he helped me see the beauty of things around us and helped me appreciate the gifts of health and sight I have… read on

January 2, 2004
It was truly awesome and inspiring… read on

January 6, 2004
On Sunday, we were invited to a parish family celebration and welcome for three English visitors… read on

January 10, 2004
The students are still trickling back. Many had problems getting money for transport, some deliberately came late, and some were sick… read on

January 15, 2004
School is back to "normal," with all the students now back, classes regular, and, of course, students with their assortment of ailments… read on

January 17, 2004
A student arrived at our door last evening about 9 p.m., with a large swollen area on his head. He reported that another student slammed his head against the wall. He appeared to be conscious and oriented… read on

Laundry Day
January 18, 2004
The morning Mass at school was offered by the people with January birthdays-Father Peter, myself and about four of the older students planned the liturgy… read on

January 26, 2004
The trip to Douala was another adventure… read on

February 2, 2004
Today, the government announced on the radio that it is a public holiday… read on

February 6, 2004
Another "different" week at school… read on

February 12, 2004
It was a bit disconcerting today, when many students did not come to class. They tell me it is traditional in Cameroon that people take an extra day after a holiday. I do not understand, as there were three days in advance of the holiday to prepare… read on

February 18, 2004
We had a serious problem last week on the Youth Day… read on

Friday, February 20, 2004
Warren is really busy as Bursar-and trying to computerize the records and teach his classes and supervise the septic tank construction, and, and, and… They turned off the electricity in the external dormitory this week because a past bill was not paid (one we never received!) That was exciting… read on

February 24, 2004
Last evening several boys appeared at our door, with a student, Terence, who was "shot in the eye" by a stone. Evidently, they were all throwing stones and one ricocheted off the power pole and hit him directly in the right eye. He was dripping blood and screaming that he could not see out of that eye! I got him calmed down, cleaned his face and patched the eye… read on

February 28, 2004
As I went to the hospital today to pick up some medicines, I marveled at how much has changed in this year… read on

March 7, 2004
Warren returned from Douala like Santa Claus… read on

March 9, 2004
This is the loneliest I have felt here-and I was in the midst of a crowd! I asked myself what I was doing, as I waited for the warm grapefruit drink and popcorn and ground nuts… read on

March 13, 2004
My Form I students in Health Science have been studying pollution of all kinds, and we were considering what we as individuals can do. Actually, packaging is much less here than in the States-we always take our own bags to the market, and fresh fruit comes in its own natural package! The problem here is that there is no trash collection or sewer system… read on

March 22, 2004
Last evening we reached a low point in our stay here. We ate about 5:30, and shortly after everyone was served, one of the teachers stood and complained loudly about the small quantity of meat they were served. He was supported by several others who were demanding to be heard-one even said the meat was the size of a fowl's eye… read on

March 28, 2004
The cultural differences continue to disturb… read on

March 31, 2004
At the staff meeting yesterday, they passed around the latest copy of the national newspaper-with the complete letter to President Biya from the Form I students! Now we are in the national news… read on

April 2, 2004
I went to visit the St. Martin's Primary school in Moh yesterday, and they were waiting for me! There were still only about half of their students attending, as they are still planting the farms. I visited each class, took their photo and showed them the picture on the camera… read on

April 12, 2004
Holy Week is always an inspiring experience here … read on

April 14, 2004
What a glorious event-lively music, beating drums, dancing processions for the offertory and lectionary…read on

April 16, 2004
My sister, Darlene Catherine DeBower Draves, was born to Howard and Martha DeBower on November 4, 1940, and she returned to the Lord on April 16, 2004. I will always be grateful to her for her gifts to me, the virtues of faith and patience… read on

April 22, 2004
We had other sad news this week… read on

Deanna and Darlene, July, 2002

April 27, 2004
I sent the last Journal chapter off so fast, as Joyce and Vicki were leaving, so I will need to do some updating on last week… read on

May 1, 2004
It is just two weeks after the students returned from their homes, and the malaria has hit. I have had more then ten students taking quinine for malaria, and four with such high fever (>103) I had to give injections. Two required hospitalization… read on

May 5, 2004
Interesting experience with the Cameroon Tetanus Vaccine Program that began this week… read on

May 9, 2004
Mother's Day and I am going with the ICM sisters to a First Mass for one of the new priests in Misajé… read on

May 15, 2004
The First Mass was a great occasion in a village about 40 minutes away-down the plateau and on the warm plain-beautiful hills/mountains along the way. It was scheduled for 9 a.m., we arrived just after 9, and it started after 10 a.m., and lasted three hours! All the local dignitaries and people attended, and there was magnificent singing and drumming and many traditional costumes… read on

Full Journal Entries

CAMEROON JOURNAL II

April 15, 2003

The first edition of the Journal was sent this past week by way of the new Internet Café in Kumbo-what a treat to have access only two hours away!

We spent our first holidays away from Nkambe this past week in Kumbo/Shisong with the other LMH folks. We were fortunate enough to catch a ride on Saturday with Sister Severia who had been up here for a Day of Recollection with the other ICM sisters here. We were told to be ready by 3 p.m., and she was here by 3 p.m.! We were packed into our backpacks as our alternative was the public transportation and luggage needs to minimal there. I really enjoyed the green hills, mountains and valleys as we drove to Kumbo-it was like a totally new experience. Our trip here had been so filled with apprehension and newness that I could not remember the terrain at all. The road had not improved, but the car (from the Bishop's house with a driver) rode much better than the school truck! We stopped at the Ndu tea plantation to "greet" a newly arrived couple from India. Sister Severia is from India and had recently met them-and they were in need of some familiar emotional support. He is a technical consultant with experience in tea plantations in India, hired by the South African owners to improve the production and quality of the Cameroonian tea. They had been here only ten days, and had left their two children in India with his folks-until they determined the safety and education opportunities for them. They had now decided to send for them, but they were quite lonesome for the children. Their home was on the tea plantation, nicely furnished and landscaped, with a butler-type helper-they served us delicious tea. It was very interesting-learning about the production of tea. He reported that the production here is 50% less than in India. There are about 3000 acres here-he describes this as a small plantation. The hills and valleys are covered with the green tea plants, about 18 inches high-a green blanket. The leaves are hand-picked in baskets, then processed at the local factory by fermentation, then dried. There are four tea plantations in Cameroon, and four Indian consultants have been hired to work with them-one at each plantation. The tea produced here is sold locally, so it could be an export product if more were produced. There are two grades here-red and blue label-but in India, there are seven grades-and all the Indian tea is exported to Germany. We have been enjoying the Ndu tea available at our local market-both grades are not always available. What a delightful stop on our journey-then we met them again at the Internet Café in Kumbo a few days later!

The car took us all the way to the Doctors' Compound where the Medinas and Grace live in Shisong-and the brakes which had been making noises all the way gave out entirely as we arrived. I guess they made it back to the Bishop's house with the downshifting! How great it was to see Ed and Cathy, the children and Grace and Joyce-all gathering for a farewell party for Margaret (the nurse from Scotland). We had a FEAST-pork, spaghetti, vegetable soup, all kinds of fruit, and brownies! Shannon (Peace Corps worker from Minnesota) brought a huge mango pie that was so beautiful and delicious it could have been my mother's, and (miracle!) there was a bit for everyone. Included in the festivities were two young women, medical students from England, and four young women, nursing students from the Netherlands. They were all great English-speakers, and it was great to share with them my experiences and theirs-they shared my horror at the treatment with many drugs and the expectation that one will only recover with medications-and they report that they believe even more in injections. The medical students told of going to the outstations to observe, and they were asked to see patients who believe even more in "white doctors"-and they have only had two years of medical school! We all learn quickly here! They are here for six weeks as part of their medical school experience-they paid their transportation, but the hospital here provides them with housing. What a great treat this is for the LMH folks here in Shisong-all the international medical personnel who rotate in and out-'always a delight for me. Eddie says it is hard to get any privacy-especially with the children. They are such a delight for us-they colored Easter eggs for us and put on labels, "Grandma" and "Grandpa." They speak the native dialect and pigeon English with their friends at school, and are very articulate in English with all the adults around. The girls (Terissa and Megan) who are 8 and 10 were going to be flower girls in a wedding at the Presbyterian church, and they had rehearsal for (the singing and dancing) 4 hours each afternoon the week before. Sometimes the bride or groom would pick them up, and sometimes they took a taxi to town! And Billy (age 5) is always at the market or outside the hospital by himself. Everyone knows them, talks to them, watches out for them, and calls Eddie "Pa-Billy" and Cathy, "Ma-Billy."

It was good to visit with Joyce, who is living alone at her new house at St. Sylvester's school, with almost 500 students--about twice the size of ours. She is finding the challenge of being a bursar with cash only and records in paper notebooks to be an interesting adventure. It is hard to be hard-nosed about money with such giving and needy folk. She continues to be outgoing and positive with all… We all rejoiced at the report from Linda (our classmate in American Samoa) who was grateful she was sent there, as she was most reluctant before going.

On Sunday, we went to church at Shisong(much more western dress here than in Nkambe), enjoyed cinnamon toast and fruit at Grace's as well as the first coffee I have had in two months-terrific! That afternoon, we went to Kumbo to check out the new internet café and BB91, the chicken place. They were out of chicken-so Eddie drove up to another place, BB92, and placed our order for chickens and fried potatoes and plantains and njama njama-two hours ahead! We sat at BB91 and played cards (Phase 10) drank beer and watched the many people milling around the "squares." We were all able to get into the LMH car to go to the BB92-with Eddie and Warren in front; Grace, Margaret, Joyce and me in the back; Cathy and the three children in the baggage area! 'Good thing it was only a mile… The food was delicious-and ready soon after we got there.

Margaret left for Scotland on Monday morning, and we moved into her apartment. We had been staying in the children's room with Cathy and Eddie. After Mass this morning, a Cameroonian sister came up to me to tell me the Americans were in Baghdad and she was grateful for their action against Saddam. That is one of the few positive comments I have heard-most are opposed to conflict.

We went to the hospital where we were able to cash a check-hurray-that is always a problem for us. We then went in to Kumbo to use the Internet Café, which does not even serve drinks. It is a small storefront just across from the cathedral with about 15 computers set very close to each other. But they worked, albeit slowly when the clouds came in and it rained. I sent everything to Wendi so she could forward it-'too slow to attach and send from here. We went to check in with the Bishop's house and got there just in time to greet Bishop Esua who was returning (driving his 4-wheel pick up) from a week of Confirmations in the outstations. He had been on the road for 7 hours! He was getting ready for the International Youth Day on Saturday and a week of retreat with all the priests next week. What a delightful and energetic man!

That evening Cathy cooked meat loaf and mashed potatoes, honey-marinated carrots and a delicious banana cake-are we treated well there! Shannon brought along a new word game. Taboo, and the teams were very competitive!!! Shannon's team won-'good thing Warren was on that one because he did not do well at cards the night before!

On Tuesday, I was able to attend a class taught by Sister Severia and her colleague, Sister Julie from Brazil, on Reflexology (acupressure and massage). The students were postulants, novices and seminary students-about 25 from the area. They gave me new hope for the Catholic Church-such bright and enthusiastic young people with vocations! Sister chose me to be the demonstration victim in the morning, so I was really relaxed from the waist up by lunch break. After lunch, another sister came in for the full body massage demonstration-so I stayed half-done! This is another of the alternative therapies to be taught to local people who have no money for health care or medicines-what a great program! The Sisters did invite me to come to their convent for a full body massage if I had time before I returned to Nkambe-'too bad I didn't! I hope I can cash a rain check another time! I do plan to teach some of the pressure points to students as an alternative to drugs-we shall see how successful that is! Tuesday evening was Mexican food day at the Medinas-Cathy made tortillas, guacamole and salsa; Eddie made chili and Grace made refried pinto beans-I almost thought I was at Felipe's!

We (Eddie, Joyce, Warren and I) left for Bamenda on Wednesday morning--those roads had not improved either, and it was the same LMH car. The hills everywhere were greening with the rains, so it was a different trip there, too. We stopped at a health clinic outstation of Shisong at Ndop, so Eddie could pick up some antibiotics. The "nurse in charge" took us around to see the facility-six pediatric beds, four male and four female beds-with a small pharmacy, laboratory and consultation room. I was surprised to hear that the "nurse in charge" is actually a nurse's aid who graduated from Shisong last summer-and she is the only medical professional there! She does the consulting, diagnosing, prescribing and provides the professional care! 'Good thing she is bright and energetic!

As we approached Bamenda from the very flat Ndop plain, we were in mountains again-green, but warmer than Nkambe. This is a city of 235,000, sprinkled over the hills and valleys, with many taxis and much traffic in the center of town. We checked in at the Mill Hill House, a guest house for traveling missionaries run by the Mill Hill fathers. The room fee was 5000 cfa (less than $10) and that includes breakfast and supper and drinks (soft drinks and beer) anytime! The rooms are all single with very clean bathrooms and screens on the windows-we could not ask for more! There was even a TV in a parlor on the main floor with English news at 7:30 p.m. -when there was no soccer game! The Mill Hill fathers are an order of priests originally from Mill Hill in London, England. They have been in Cameroon for more than 50 years and have provided staff and construction for many parishes and medical centers. There was another couple (nurse and civil engineer from the Netherlands) there-lay affiliates of the Mill Hill fathers-who were shopping for their home in Mamfe where they will be serving for three years. Mamfe is in the equatorial forest, and they report no running water (even at the medical clinic), very unpredictable power and oppressive heat and humidity-night and day. They are about 3 hours out of Bamenda going toward Nigeria-and she will be working at the medical clinic and he will be overseeing building projects of the new diocese there. This is their second tour of duty-previously they were in Nairobi, Kenya-also hot, but much more developed. Every day we find a reason to be grateful for what we have and for what others are willing to give!

We headed to the open market to see what was there. We stopped at the Vatican store, a "supermarket" with no bargaining. We met a Peace Corps worker (Nicholas) just outside (in the pouring rain) who offered to accompany us to the market to help Warren shop for hardware and wood finishing supplies. Fortunately, we had our raincoats along, as it was dumping. Eddie bought a brown and black umbrella because he liked the colors-when he opened it, it had printed, "Elizabeth Beautiful"-oh, well! We found some dishes, silverware (as ours bend with any pressure), pots and pans, and food flask (cooler) and tea flask. There was intense bargaining for each one-how they enjoy that! We also had the Medinas' propane gas tank, so packing would be critical!

We shared the evening meal with Father Bill, Brother Duncan, the couple headed for Mamfe-great bread, fruit, pasta and stew-and cheese which we have not been able to get. We were sure to buy some the next day to take home-wax-covered Gouda. That evening, we had a soccer game to watch from Barcelona.

On Wednesday, we went shopping early-back to the market; the other supermarket, New Life; book stores; and a myriad of hardware stores and building supply places for Warren. We bought toilet seats (ours are wrong shape and beyond cleaning), lamps for our room, cake pans and so many supplies that are not available or expensive in Nkambe. We went to the Archbishop's House to apply for our driver's licenses. They needed our International licenses, copies of our passports, and about $50! We also paid for 2 hours for an employee to take the applications to the "DMV" office and the fuel for his car (about $3)!-money well spent! Fortunately, we were able to pick them up the next day.

We stopped at Uncle Sam's Restaurant at 9 a.m. to order cheeseburgers on homemade buns, with grilled onions, fries, cole slaw and cokes for noon. At noon, we thought we died and went to In and Out! Actually, I thought they were even better (we may not be good judges now) though Warren says not-and it was $10 for all four of us! You can bet there is nothing like that in Nkambe!

In the afternoon, we went to a craft shop and found wonderful carvings, weavings and pottery. We will be sure to return there before we return to the USA! The woods are beautiful and some of the work very detailed and fine. That evening, we had shepherd's pie and a delicious salad at the Mill Hill House. Also, we were visited by the family of our landlord, Joseph. His wife and five children and one godchild all came in their finest dress to greet us. We served them soft drinks and ground nuts and cookies on the second story veranda overlooking the city-and it was a photo opportunity! Their home is here while he lives in the other unit of our house in Nkambe-and has for seven years. We find this very common here-many couples live very far apart for years-for employment opportunities. This evening we had the English newscast-and it looks like we are wrapping up the Iraq conflict.

The parish church was right next door, and again the morning Mass was at 6 a.m. with stations at 5 a.m. The church was huge, with a beautiful painting of the nearby mountains behind the crucifix above the altar. What a setting-huge windows on the east for sunrise and on the west for sunset! There is another retreat center down the hill, and there were over 100 nuns on retreat-so their singing was wonderful in the morning, too.

The next morning we enjoyed omelettes for breakfast there, then stopped at some more hardware stores and loaded up with fruit at the roadside stands-watermelon, mangoes, and papayas. Eddie is a great packer-he used to work for a meat company! We were loaded to the roof-but everything got inside. We stopped on the return trip at an agricultural coop to buy rice-about 4 pounds for $1. After the three-hour trip, we dropped Joyce off at her school in Sop, then were delighted to have dinner ready courtesy of Cathy and Grace-meat loaf! Eddie is good with the grinder, too.

On Saturday, the Medinas went off to the wedding in Kumbo, and we joined Grace at the dedication of the new parish hall at the Shisong parish. Mass was to start at 9 a.m., but we were the first ones there again. It did get started before 9:30-and what a celebration. The choir was wonderful and the children came in costume dancing up the aisle. Before the readings, native dancers came up the center aisle with drums and cutlasses and tall branches to bring in the Scriptures. At the Offertory, local native leaders came in full costume to offer food and money-it was a splendid affair. After the Mass, someone announced the list of persons to be photographed and order of procession to bless the new hall-very orderly, and I understand it lasted until 4 p.m. We left after the Mass, and took a taxi to the town of Kumbo to do our final shopping. At the market, we ran into Patrick's brother, Peter, who was attending the Youth Day. Then we saw the youth marching to the parish church, with the Bishop waving to us as he brought up the rear. He also had a priest from Los Angeles with him-who was to have dinner with us this evening. When we got to the supermarket, we saw Sister Roch and another teacher from Nkambe-this is a small country!

That evening, all the LMH folk hosted a dinner for Monsignor Loftus, an Irish priest who is pastor in Woodland Hills, CA. We provided the wine, and Cathy and Grace cooked barbecued pork, boiled new potatoes, carrots and cabbage-delicious! Msgr. Loftus is on a six-month sabbatical in Africa, and had just come from Nigeria which he described as incredibly dirty and hot. He was enchanted with the country and people of Cameroon. He was staying with the Bishop and anticipating an inspirational Holy Week with no parish responsibilities! What a delightful chap-he said he knew Father Ned from his term at St. Francis of Assisi in La Quinta! He was also acquainted with the sisters at St. Joseph's in Upland-'from the same area of Ireland.

On Sunday morning, we were invited to celebrate Palm Sunday with the Franciscan sisters at their convent chapel behind the hospital. We started with a gathering on the hillside to bless the palms, with a breathtaking view of valleys and mountains, clear in the sparkling sunlight. After the blessing, the novices led us all in singing "Hosannah" and dancing through the garden to the church. There were more than 120 nuns, with crisp white habits and veils, in sharp contrast to their dark complexions and eyes-singing in harmony and heavenly joy, swaying with drums and shakers. I did not think to bring my camera, but I will remember the sights, sounds and feelings for a lifetime-a most memorable entrance into Jerusalem!

After Mass, we enjoyed another breakfast and coffee with Grace, packed up the car and headed north to Nkambe-with Eddie and Warren in front and the children with me in the back. We commented on the lack of safety issues here-trucks go by with twenty people standing in the back, one on the front fender and a couple hanging off the rear step. Most cars do not have seat belts, and if they do, they don't work. We see people working on cars with two tree trunks holding up one side so they can get under. Our neighbor has the only helmet I have ever seen on a motorcycle rider. There are no fences at steep cliffs, and often the road is washing away. There are always people walking on the road-night and day, and difficult to see.

After their big day at the wedding the previous day, the children were soon asleep. We tried to let Patrick know when to expect us (and have lunch ready) through our neighbor, Joseph, but had the wrong number-so Patrick was out trying to call us when we returned. When I told him we were at the house, he quickly came and we put together a quick lunch for everyone-jellof rice (rice and vegetables) and salad. Fortunately, he had been to the market on Saturday. He was glad to have us back-he said it was lonely here. Of course, we were full of new things for the kitchen and house, so it was Christmas here. The kids explored the house, yard and school-and declared they will return.

Monday was back to school, where I taught a class to the seniors (Form 5)-on the Endocrine System. This is still a holiday week, so I only teach one class a day to seniors. Warren was trying to install the toilet seats, and one does not fit well at all. Pa Cyprian was down from school to try to stop the leaks in our sinks again-Warren bought flexible hoses and that helps. Francis was here to finish the painting-I think it is finally done-for sure the paint is now gone. The big exciting news is that there is mail and DVDs from Wendi and Felipe of the NCAA Basketball tournament (Warren is delighted) and Renee (we are both delighted!). Big evening for us. I even fixed asparagus soup and crackers and cheese-thanks to Wendi and the Bamenda trip!

Tuesday, April 15, 2003

Warren did laundry training for Patrick today-'even made a list for him. He is determined to reduce the amount of soap and bleach he is using (as we have holes in many things) and increase the amount of rinsing (lots of things are stiff). They make a great team, as Patrick listens to him well-better than me! I have been trying to get him to cook meat and beans at a low temperature-as soon as I lower the gas, he raises it. Jonah is coming over this evening to watch the basketball games!

Some Comments on Cameroon…
Animals
We have not seen many wild animals here-the three monkeys on our first trip here, and the mouse that comes in some evenings. I understand there are some national parks in Cameroon where large animals can be found in pristine environment. Shannon is taking her parents to Wasa Park this month, so we will hear first hand.

There are the two tame monkeys in our backyard, owned by Joseph. There are many goats around town-most are tethered now that the crops are planted-black, white, multicolored, with little kids, often bleating. All the chickens are free range-however, they are now penned, too, to keep them from eating new growth. I have seen four turkeys in town-a pair at two different houses. I have not seen turkey meat for sale at all. The Cameroonians do not think much of pork meat, so there are only a few pigs around. When anyone comes by with a pig, it is leashed by the right rear leg, whereas goats are leashed around the neck. The cows have huge horns and big bones-they don't look like very prime meat! The Fulani (Muslim) people traditionally herd cows, and they live outside of the village area. They also ride horses (also not well-fed). The only cats I have seen have been at people's homes-the sisters and Father Robert. There are dogs around, and none look like anyone feeds them regularly. I have never seen one on a leash. The Medina children have two guinea pigs in a pen that they feed banana leaves and love to play with. They do report that people here raise them to eat-and they live all over the houses-no cages!

Birds

We hear and see lots of birds every day. There is one particular call from the telephone bird that sounds just like a ringing telephone. We see yellow birds that look like large finches and come in small groups-they say they are called "yellow birds." Hawks can be seen soaring over the valley. Patrick says they often scoop up small chickens. Some crows/ravens have white shoulders and seem extra large. There are swallows in Shisong who nest behind the altar and on top of the wooden crucifix. They can be seen flying in and out during Sunday Mass!

Trees and Plants

I see many trees/plants that are familiar from California-jacaranda, bottle brush, oleander, bougainvillea, Gerber daisies, poinsettia, aloe vera, and roses. The school has lots of flowers planted around the buildings. There are clumps and forests of eucalyptus trees that the government is trying to cut down-as they take too much water and lower the water table. Fields that are planted with beans and corn are often dotted with the stumps of eucalyptus-I guess they wait for them to rot to remove. Cypress trees are very common. There is an African tulip tree that looks like the opening of "Out of Africa." Around the school and churches, I see blooming trees that are purple and red-but I have not been able to identify their names yet. I recognize banana trees and plantain trees, but I cannot tell them apart. The flower of these trees is quite unique-the bananas or plantains come like the flower petals. There are papaya trees, referred to as pawpaw trees, and large avocado trees, referred to as pear trees. I see these often in the middle of fields, not grown in groves at all. There are small fields of coffee trees-I understand they are one of the few cash crops, and that market has dropped considerably lately. These are often the only "farms" attended to by the men. In the villages at lower elevation, there are groves of raffia palm, from which is tapped the palm wine morning and evening. Rice grows in the flat fields of the Ndop Plain on the way to Bamenda.

Now that the farm planting is done (almost all by women), and the rains have come, we can see the new fields of corn and beans planted together, Irish potatoes, coco yams, and ground nuts. I have taken pictures of the valley below in the dry season with red brown fields and now in the very electric green rainy season-a dramatic difference.

Weather

When we arrived, the mid-day temperature was always above 80 degrees, and the nights cooled to 60. Every day was sunny, and the red dust was everywhere-in the house, on our clothes and covering our shoes. The view across our valley was clouded with dust and smoke from fires-field fires burning last year's stalks, etc.--set by the farmers because they believe the ashes increase fertility. Actually, the agricultural experts are discouraging this practice and encouraging re-tilling the soil with the plant residue-but getting little compliance.

About April 1, the rains came and the dust settled. It rains very heavily almost every day-even noisier on the tin roof! However, the showers are pretty short, and the sun returns almost every day. The first rains came in the night, but now we can have a downpour most any time of the day or night. There is often thunder and lightning-and that often triggers a power outage. The temperatures are a bit cooler now, and there is often much wind. The winds off the Sahara blow here, and they are called the harmattan winds. Warren thinks wind generation of energy might work here. We are at the end of a high plateau, so the winds come up and over and down again. The roof of the local Muslim school was blown off a couple weeks ago.

Saturday, April 19, 2003

This holiday week has been most interesting and most restful-except that we have been without power for more than 24 hours-and I have great concerns for the food in the refrigerator. And today, Patrick called on the walkie talkie to ask if we were interested in pork meat-they butchered a pig at the school. So, we have 2 kg. of pork roast now-'sure hope the power comes back soon. Warren cut up the beef we had in the refrigerator, and I cooked it all this afternoon. Now, the water is out, too, because it depends on a power pump!

Last Wednesday, Serophine and I visited the local health department-I was interested in information on the Cameroon health services from the government, as our students are supposed to know that information. We met with Madame Grace, the midwife in charge of the center, and what another experience! The clinic provides prenatal, midwife and postnatal services-at a cost of 2100 CFA-about $3.50! If it is a high risk pregnancy, the mother is referred to the hospital next door and the cost is 6000 CFA-about $10. They do routine HIV screening, and identify about 20 to 30% positive. They then do counseling, but she said they do not often recommend bottle feeding, as the families have no money for formula. She recognizes that breast feeding increases the child's chances of contracting HIV, but starvation is lethal, too.

There is a laboratory, pharmacy, immunization clinic, labor room with two beds, single delivery room with the bare necessities-a table with stirrups and an iron crib and scale-and a six-bed postpartum ward. There were two mothers there and about 10 family members. The iron cribs were decorated by the patients with white lace, and the infants were beautifully dressed in way too many clothes and blankets. Madame Grace supervises about nine staff members, including one nurse, one pharmacist and one new laboratory technician. They provide immunizations on Friday-BCG (against TB), Polio (oral), DPT, and Measles. There are no charges for the immunizations, but they only immunize infants. Her staff also goes to 13 outlying health centers once a month for immunization clinics-on foot, as most of the roads are not passable. They take the vaccines in coolers with ice packs. She showed me their vaccine storage-'nicest refrigerators and freezers I have seen since I got here. She did say that I could bring our students for tetanus vaccine should they have a puncture wound. She reported that she had her training in Nigeria, and her English was very good. She said I really needed to talk with their director who would be in on Monday-so I will return.

Warren. Patrick and I also did a field trip to the dairy which delivers our milk each week. The young couple is very enterprising and enthusiastic. They have two Holsteins (bull and cow) from the USA, in cooperation with the Heifer Project. Their cow produces 9 liters (about 9 quarts) each day, and they are careful to measure food and water intake. They also have four pigs, several sheep that pasture with the cows, about ten traditional bee hives and four African cows they intend to cross breed. We were there almost two hours, hearing all his plans and dreams. They would love to have a milking machine, but none is available here. The wife does the milking and they deliver by motorcycle. They are considering cheese production-hurray! They also work to convince the locals that liquid milk is good for you-they only know dry milk. What an inspiration they are!

On the way home, I started talking with a young man who was walking down our road, Shadrack Ndi. He told me he was on his way to Moh where his family lives. He was dressed in a sport coat and slacks with a tie-and I know the way to Moh is long and steep. He told me he could walk it better than I because he is younger, stronger and more agile! After that take-down, we chatted about him. He told me he is the most educated of his family, so he has an obligation to visit and straighten out any family quarrels. He had educational aspirations as a young boy, and all the family sacrificed for him to go to school. He has a BA in education and a Master's degree in English-and has been unable to find a job. He worked last year as a part time teacher but only made 24000CFA (about $40) a month. So, he is now seeking a full time position to be able to assist the family financially-and he aspires to getting a PhD. We talked about the economic problems here, precipitated by the bad roads, unpredictable power, excessive duty and he said, "People here cannot be trusted." I told him we had met many people here in Nkambe we trusted-he was pleased. Such an articulate and earnest young man-I pray for him, his family and his future.

The Holy Thursday service was moving, as Father Peter washed the feet of twelve men with our bucket and our water. There is no running water at the church-so we are the source. It poured during the 2 ½ hour service, but was clear when we came out. On Good Friday, we joined the people from our "quarter" (neighborhood) in the Stations of the Cross through Nkambe. We were led by a young man with a rough wooden cross, and then prayers were led by different members. We stopped for each station, then sang hymns between-and ended up at the church for the 14th station, along with five other "quarter" groups. By the time we got to the church, it was raining, so that station went pretty quickly. The Good Friday service lasted three hours-by the time we came out, the sky was clear and the sun was out (briefly because it was already 6 p.m.). The Saturday evening Mass started with the Easter fire in front of the church-all the men brought firewood. We all entered the church with candles, and it was very dramatic. It really was a Resurrection event-for 4 ½ hours! There are so many new and symbolic parts to the liturgy that not even Warren is complaining! The candidates for Baptism all came in brilliant white outfits, dancing up the aisle. The scriptures were brought in again with song and dance and led by two individuals in traditional costume carrying tall stalks that they call the peace plant. Easter Sunday Mass lasted three hours, too-and the church was packed with everyone in their finest dress. Patrick's family came over after Mass, and we gave them Easter eggs and drinks. Our neighbor, Joseph, joined us for dinner as his family is all in Bamenda.

We colored Easter eggs and also shared them with the neighbor children. We could only find green food coloring, so our eggs were all green. However, we had great stickers that Mark and Liz sent-so they were coveted by all. No one has ever heard of Easter eggs or the Easter bunny here! I also made a carrot cake in keeping with the holiday-and Brenna's favorite! We were invited to Father Peter's for dinner in the evening-he showed us the video of his ordination ten years ago. He will be celebrating the anniversary of his ordination this next week.

We were delighted to talk with our family over the Easter holiday-it is hard to be so far away, especially during family holidays. I was a bit teary on Easter morning, but after a day of visitors here, and phone calls, I was revitalized. The time spent during this Lent and Easter triduum have provided much in the way of spiritual energy and renewed commitment to our mission here.

I did talk with my mother, who has had a second opinion on her leg and is facing two more surgeries. It appears that the knee she had replaced had not been aligned correctly, so it has probably caused a hip problem which now requires a hip replacement. She will most likely also need to have the knee redone. She has been so positive with all of these-life is often not fair. The hip replacement is scheduled for May 22, so please keep her in your prayers-and us, too, as we struggle being so far away…

With love and prayers for all…

Warren and Deanna

Cameroon Journal III

May 5, 2003

Into every life, some rain must fall. It seems that this past week, along with the rain from the skies has been series of disappointments for us. We have not received any mail for four weeks-I don't know what I would do if Wendi and Felipe didn't call each week! I am really feeling the isolation from family and longtime friends.

Warren has been expressing his own frustration with Cameroon and the continuing problems with power failures, lack of furniture in our house, lack of specific work for him, lack of positive outcomes from what he has already done or proposed-and he is out of books to read.

Even Patrick struggles. Last week he went to the post office to set up a savings account (which pays 8%), and he found out that he needs two passport photos and another 500 francs for "stamps" to open an account. Then, today he went with the extra money and photos, and the postmaster was not in! On Sunday, he and the youth group designed and rehearsed a procession to bring in the Scriptures, and midway, Father Peter told them they were taking too long-"just bring them up!" We sent his broken glasses to Shisong Hospital, and Grace reports they are repaired-for 18000 francs, and he makes 24000 a month. I guess we will loan the money to him along with a repayment plan!

We have been working on an education plan with him. Warren was encouraging him to learn computers here in Nkambe before he enters a university anywhere. Last week he was deciding between the university at Yaoundé (the capitol) and one in Bamenda (and he always dreams of being accepted at an American university). He was really struggling with making a decision. The next morning, he reported that he had been awake most of the night, and has decided he wants to become a priest! He says that he has had that vocation for some time, but did not believe that his benefactor, Joachim, a German teacher who was here seven years ago, would support that. We had recently heard from Joachim by e-mail, and he is willing to support further education for Patrick, but wants specific information and goals. So, we are now investigating seminary options. He has talked with his parents who are supportive (and we were not sure they would be as he is their financial support), Father Victor, the local parish priest, and plans to see the other local priests, too. When we go to Kumbo this month, we will get information from two of the orders (Mill Hill and Capuchin). This is probably a long term process, but we will do what we can do to help him find the path of God's will.

Yesterday, we went to the semi-finals of the local soccer matches-Nkambe vs. Bamenda. It is about a mile to the field, and the fans were gathered. Nkambe was ahead 2-0 at the half, but it ended in a tie 2-2. The players are very fast and agile, and great with their feet and heads-it is also a very physical game-good spectator watching. I felt very weak at the game and was really sick by the time we arrived home-it is the first food (probably) problem I have had since we are here. By this morning, I was better, but still feel shaky. And I don't do "sick" well! I did go to school and the hospital round trip! Last Friday, we admitted one of our students to the hospital for IV malaria treatment, and then, on Saturday, we admitted three more! I was taking one student in to "consult" and two more came along, and they admitted them all. They were out of beds in the male ward, so put them in the surgical ward. I had to go to the pharmacy to purchase the IV solutions and administration sets for each one, and then contacted the student infirmarian to bring linens and meals to all four! They even gave me alcohol in a plastic bag to cleanse the skin prior to needle insertion. I love the names of the students-Elvis, Princely, Divine, and Hyacinth-all boys. I still say I pray we never need to go to the hospital, but I am not as shocked as I was when we arrived…

The social events of the past weekend were very cultural experiences. On Saturday evening, we went to a "born house"-celebration of a newborn at the home of the Discipline Master. The SARICO (St. Rita's College) women were all in "uniform" and celebrated with song and dance-actually, some were very sexually suggestive-the first I have seen here. The song and dance told the story of the child's conception and birth. Of course, there was much food-fufu and njama njama with a delicious tomato meat sauce, kokee bean pudding cooked in banana leaves, and the traditional dish for a "born house," plantains in a sauce-plus the usual white mimbo (palm wine) and cha (corn beer). There is nothing sweet served! They are still good about having a soft drink or beer for us-I can drink the cha, but have to hold my breath when drinking "white," because I can't stand the smell. The group presented gifts to the family-two large cooking pots, an umbrella and a little cash.

On Sunday, it was the parish celebration for Father Peter's tenth anniversary, and the Mass at 9 a.m. was packed. Following the Mass, everyone went to the school hall for speeches and food. Each "quarter" -a geographical unit of the parish-was to bring two containers of food and two containers of "cha." We stopped at our house for a bit, so we were a little late-and they took us to the front of the hall where there were seats saved. I don't think we will be late to anything again! There were fine acclamations for Father Peter and his work here for the past seven years. We did not stay for the meal as I was already not feeling so fine-and we went from there to the soccer match.

A week ago, we walked to Moh with Jonah to visit the construction site for the new health center there. Actually, they have had a grader working on the road, and it was much better than the last time I went. It is still a much easier walk going, than coming up that mountainside. The health center foundation is completed, and it is amazing what they can do with hand tools. The edges are knife-sharp, the concrete poured-and all the dirt was dug out by the women of the village. They had been told we were coming, so about twenty women in the finest dress came to "greet" us. Each one extended a hand and the biggest smile! A truck did come while we were there to deliver a load of sand. In order to get the dumper to work, they poured water into the hydraulic system! The children were all over the site, and were especially interested in the new sand pile! The people are so pleased with the progress and the possibility of health care locally-now they must walk or carry any patients up the mountainside road. There is no vehicle in the village. It is my understanding that they plan to staff the center with local women they will send to the nursing school in Shisong, and hope to have the medical staff from Shisong assist. I guess they will take one step at a time. The general contractor (Pascal) is a member of our parish in Nkambe, and he was delighted with our visit. He invited us to his house one evening this week for a beer and to tell us about his planning and work on this project-which was bid three years ago. Of course, there are problems with increased costs over the three year period. Also, the German embassy that is funding the project cut the amount of funds-so right now they are just building the structure-there is no money for furnishings. Each family is to make and provide ten bricks (cut from local soil)-also the women's responsibility. The walls should be going up this week, and they have already purchased the windows and "zinc" (metal roof). The carpenters are building the roof frame on site, and they plan to have it completed in June. They have paid some of the laborers, but most of the work has been done by the women volunteers. Pascal also reports he is working on a project with the Japanese embassy, bringing water from a distant spring to the village. Right now they only have a polluted stream. It is quite amazing what can be done with minimal money and local volunteer labor. He did tell us that the men had not been helping until the women restricted the amount of cha to encourage them! The young people have also been reluctant, so the Fon (village chief) is meeting with them to "threaten" them-whatever that means! We are anxious to return again soon to see progress-anxious at least for the going down…

Our small Christian faith community continues to meet each Thursday evening, and ranges from six to fifteen. We hope to have the LMH director, Father David (who arrives in a couple weeks), attend with us. We are also planning a dinner with the local priests and nuns-Patrick is buying two chickens tomorrow that he will tie and keep in our back yard, feeding them corn for a week! The big positive news for us today is that the school has purchased the parts to repair our freezer this next weekend-I am afraid to count on it. I cannot imagine the luxury of ice cubes!

There was a SARICO women's club meeting this past week, and I continue to go even though I need constant interpreting-they all speak pigeon English. I sat next to a guest, a friend of the hostess, a young man who works at the local taxation department. He told me that property tax here is called land tax, but few people pay it. The only penalty is that if you want something from the government at any time, they will inquire if you have paid. He told me there is a l% tax on business income and a social insurance tax for employees to build retirement funds-this is a recent program and payments are very small right now. His background is a bachelor's degree from the university at Yaoundé, and he has been unemployed for three years. He found out about this job in the taxation department from his sister who works for the government, too. He has been working only since January. He was very articulate and very interested in American information. What he was doing at this women's meeting, I shall never know. They introduced him, fed him and gave him drinks-but that was all! The agenda always includes a sharing time for "other matters." This time the sharing was about witchcraft--one woman reported that she had been accused of casting a spell on a pregnant woman who was then unable to deliver the baby, and another reported that some person who hated her had sent snakes to her house repeatedly. There was also a discussion on the evil of gossiping and one woman asked how old is too old to have a lover? During the meeting, I knew little about the discussion, but Serophine gave me the details later! Interesting….

May 14, 2003

Last weekend was another cultural experience opportunity! We were invited by someone from church to attend a meeting of a social group-one which had included the German couple who lived in our house before their return to Germany. The gentleman from church, "Pa Joseph" came to collect us just after 9 a.m. Patrick was concerned about our going, as he had doubts about our safety with this group, so he went along. The man who came for us was upset that Patrick came, but Patrick told him that if we die, he dies! We walked down the mountain about a mile to a grove of raffia palms like a jungle (full of mosquitos) to a structure that was built by Christien (the German), a clubhouse for this social group. There were two old subchiefs there (fabulous faces with character), one the owner of the grove and one from Moh-in beautiful ceremonial dress with their carved wooden staffs, plus about six men-all drinking palm wine. They offered us fresh (that day) palm wine when someone went to get glasses, and actually it was quite sweet and good. They were drinking older (and stronger alcohol content) palm wine in cow horn cups. I sat on a bench with Patrick, and the support collapsed and the bench fell-and we jumped up fast. From another bench, we heard them greet us warmly, explain that they are a small social group who meet at 9 a.m. on Saturday mornings to drink and share, and they buy and share a cow at Christmas time-no other specific information on their purposes. They did show us a book with photos of the construction of the clubhouse and Christien and family. The name of the club is NdangNdang (which means mosquitos!) and they invited us to join. Now I can think of a lot of things I would rather do at 9 a.m. on Saturday, but we thanked them for the hospitality and made no commitment. Warren did give them 500 francs to pay for our drinks-so we owe them nothing! Patrick says this group actually has done some very weird things-like animal torture-and warns us to never go again. He reports that they took advantage of Christien and would be expecting us to contribute heavily. One fellow had already asked Warren if our phone could call to Germany. I think we will have some other commitments on Saturday mornings!

The refrigerator/freezer was repaired over the weekend by one of the students, Juan Patrice. He is a young man in his early twenties who was an orphan at age 8, a street child in Douala with no primary education, who was taken in by a woman in Douala, who now pays his school fees here. He had training in refrigeration in Douala, and is quite proficient in repairs and he is now here learning to read and write. He took the whole refrigeration unit apart, put in new type of refrigerant and new motor in the freezer-and he put a door bell in our unit! What a fine young man-when I asked him what his career goals were, he said he wanted to have his own repair business to earn money to support other street children like he was! He grew up speaking French, but his English is quite good-and he is all business. Warren is working with him to get cost estimates for woodworking purchases in Douala-I am sure he will do well. Meanwhile, he is spending much time studying for the final exams here which start tomorrow. 'And we are enjoying the freezer-and our first ice cubes in four months!

Last week, I walked the mile to the market, found great green beans and pineapple, then haggled with a vendor over towels I wanted to buy for rags. They see a white person and expect to charge plenty-but they have not met me! There are vendors who just sell used clothes and such, and I found a great bathroom rug today with a cut out for the toilet for 50 cents-so few have toilets they don't know what the cutout is for! They wanted four dollars for a towel, but I got them down to 35 cents! I am buying towels for rags-and they sell them for use as towels-raggy and all!

The other excitement last week was the purchase of two live chickens-Patrick bought earlier at the market. Father David was coming from Los Angeles, and we wanted to serve chicken dinner, and they are not always available. First, when we came home we found he had put them in the back bedroom. After we directed him to get them out and clean up the poop, he was to put them in our country kitchen in the backyard. He then went home. I was to buy corn to feed them at the market, and when I went out to feed them, they were nowhere to be seen! He had tied their feet together, but they were still able to fly up and out-one was in the rafters and one was in the neighborhood. After a lot of chasing and recruiting neighborhood young people, they were firmly tied to posts in the country kitchen. We were fattening them up for dinner next week! I didn't want to get too chummy with them or I might not eat dinner next week! They actually got away again and Patrick chased…

The big disappointment was that Father David's visa did not come through, so his trip was cancelled. So much for the plans we had made to show him around Nkambe and our "r and r" in Yaounde-however, we are continuing with the dinner plans, our first dinner party here. Patrick will be preparing the chickens (table foul) and plantains and fruit. I am doing creamed green beans and chocolate toffee cookies.

Last Saturday we went to a community celebration welcoming the Fon from Kumbo-his first visit to Nkambe. Our local Fon was also there, and there were many speeches, dances and songs of welcome-about 500+ people in beautiful ceremonial dresses and hats-the hats were especially wonderful. Many of the people are from the tribe in Kumbo-the women dance completely bent over before the Fon, and they also assumed that bent posture when the Fon was greeted and welcomed. There is still much tribal respect and allegiance here. We went with Jonah from Massachusetts (who is about 6 foot 5 inches), so for many reasons we were very obvious! We arrived just as the opening speeches began-someone immediately led us to seats-right across the front of the auditorium-another time we should have come earlier! We left after a couple hours-before they fed everyone! I understand the dancing continued to the early hours of the morning-even though the power went off and they had to use a generator!

On Monday evening, we were invited to Father Robert's birthday party in Tabenken, at his mother's house. He came by with the First Asst. Divisional Officer who stayed and had a drink with us-until the taxi came to collect the three of us. He is a young man who has been here only a little more than a year, very articulate and gracious. The taxi (very compact) had two women and a baby already in the back seat, as well as 10 crates of beer in the trunk (lid completely open). I joined the ladies and the three men took the front seat! We proceeded the 10 kilometers down to Tabenken over beautiful green mountains with a spectacular sun setting and the usual impossible roads! The village has no water or electricity, but Father's mother's house had a generator. There were many people assembled to celebrate and feast-family members, members of his parish team, old friends, and three white people who are part of a Bible translation group, promoting and translating the New Testament into the local tribal language, Limbum. Jacob is from Chicago and Shawn and Kimberly are from North Dakota-young people who will be here for about two years. They have been almost a year, and speak the native language quite well-'makes me want to learn! There are so many times I have no idea what is being said… It was a grand occasion-many toasts to a dynamic priest and friend to many. He has lived in Huntington Beach, so it is easy to communicate with him. He also reports he has been able to access e-mail by his mobile phone-we will explore.

June 1, 2003

The school year is really over-the students will be here another week, but will be cleaning the school and schoolyard. They will also be doing manual labor (weeding) at the school farm. The teachers will be completing grading, and I understand we will have an all day "class council" meeting, wherein all students will be discussed by all teachers and determination made as to whether they will pass to the next "form." The students continue to need the school nurse, as I am seeing lots of sports injuries and "sprained" fingers/arms/knees/ankles that they bring to me-to see if I will give them a written excuse from manual labor. Most often I tell them that the exercise will do it good. I have decided that since I cannot fight them, I "join" them-with some sort of treatment for all the complaints! Eddie gave me the Shisong Hospital liniment (smells like wintergreen), and I give out finger-fuls for massage on "sprains," I have saline gargle for sore throats, saline eye drops for burning eyes, and warm soaks are a frequent treatment for boils. I have cut down on the use of antibiotics-but the malaria treatment demand continues. We only had four students admitted to the hospital this past month-and the nurse at the hospital is encouraging us to treat students with IV quinine at the school. I am not so interested in that-there is certainly no room for beds in the infirmary, and I am not looking for a 24-hour a day assignment! The bed fee at the hospital is only 500 francs (about 1$) -well worth it to me. It (the hospital) still looks dingy and grimy-but not as bad as when we arrived. I don't think it has changed-but my perspective has!

Yesterday (Saturday) was the St. Rita's Women's Club meeting at our house. Patrick was here bright and early to wash the floors, while I went up for the morning run at the infirmary-scrapes, punctures, and sports injuries. There were three of us "hostessing" and one was the cook at school who had to cook for the students. Miss Mirabel (the accounting teacher) and a couple of her friends prepared kokee beans at her place-in the outdoor country kitchen. The small white beans are soaked, husks removed, then ground into a paste. The paste is mixed in a mortar with onions, garlic, spices and pepe, then placed in a banana leaf, tied and steamed. We also served boiled plantains with it. Every dish seems to have a great amount of labor involved! My job was to do the "fruit juice." I wasn't sure how I was going to do that with no blender, but I soon found out that it meant fruit salad with pineapple juice dressing. Mirabel made the juice by grating the pineapple and then cooking it with the skin, then straining it! Patrick and I worked about an hour to cut up 10 mangoes, two papayas, two large pineapples and one watermelon. The only container I had large enough to hold it all was the dishwashing basin-which I cleaned up well. We served it in glasses with spoons, and there was enough for three servings for everyone-and they loved it. I had made a banana cake for dessert-which they never have--so it was a gourmet experience for all of us! I made the cake earlier in the week, using the milk which had soured because of no power-and then froze it, and it worked out well. There was not even one crumb left…

The scripture and reflection at the meeting dealt with Ecclesiastes and qualities and value of true friends. I found myself sharing about the treasure of friends I am now far from-and how that is the most difficult part of this experience, my gratitude to the St. Rita's staff for their extension of friendship to us here, and my gratitude to God for my best friend, Warren, who is sharing and supporting me here every day. We don't always agree, but we are always here for each other. There were tears in my eyes as I filled with emotion-something I have not shared with them before… I find the women to be strong and powerful, especially in this women's group, willing to speak out, criticize, and take a stand. I see little tenderness expressed and very little expression of closeness between married couples-they do not even attend Mass together. Even when we see the teachers in the town, they are alone or with other teachers, not with spouses. Some even have spouses living great distances and they only see each other a few times a year.

The four senior students in Health Science had their "practical" exam last Thursday, with an examiner from the government technical school here in Nkambe. Serophine and I were also there, and I ended up being the other evaluator. Each student drew a number and was assigned a situation, i.e. foreign object in ear, paint spatter in eyes, muscle cramp in an athlete, child with high fever. The student then had to write a list of materials needed and a procedure to follow, and then demonstrate the technique. They were all in white jackets and head wraps, and nervous about the test. We had prepared for more elaborate scenarios-rescue breathing, Heimlich maneuver, bandaging and splints… We had to provide a lot of supplies and equipment (salt, thermometer, bed, pillow, milk, bandages, dressings), and they seemed to think they had to use it all. They all froze up, gave almost no explanations, and overdid every situation… I scored them as average, and almost matched the other teacher (so I felt I was on t